Wire-wrapping is an ancient technique of creating jewelry that is enjoying a well-deserved renaissance of popularity today among all groups of people. The ancient Phoenicians are credited with the creation of wire wrapped jewelry, but biblical records show detailed instructions being given to Moses to construct the tabernacle and the priestly garments and attire. The design for the breastplate of Aaron, the High Priest is found in Exodus 28, verses 15, and on it was to have 12 gems: sardius (ruby), topaz, carbuncle, emerald, sapphire, diamond, jacinth, agate, amethyst, beryl, onyx and jasper. All were to be set in gold filigree.
Filigree was gold or silver hammered into thin sheets, then cut into thin strips and the edges filed smooth, thus making wire. The wire was woven into a basket of filigree and set into the breastplate. Later in Exodus, more detailed instructions were given about setting other gemstones into the rest of the priestly garments. Biblical scholars have placed this event near 1446 BC, nearly 1000 years ahead of the Phoenicians.
There was a change in the Egyptian sarcophagi around 1900 BC, about the time that Joseph traveled to Egypt and brought his family there to avoid the famine in Israel. The sarcophagi, prior to that time were layered with fine sheets of gold. About 1900 to 1800 BC, the sarcophagus changed to include woven strands of gold and silver, hinting that the Hebrew artists brought this art form to their new homeland. Some of the influences we see today from these ancient artisans include:
*Earring styles - hoops, dangles, buttons, and "doorknockers";
*Tiaras worn for evening - based on crowns and diadems;
*Nature themes and motifs in designs;
*Multi-linked and multicolored bracelets and necklaces;
*Today's religious medals and charms worn for luck came from the amuletic jewelry and talismans of ancient times.
Wire jewelry was produced this way through the rise of the Phoenician Empire. Phoenician culture thrived on arts and performance. As a semi-nomadic group of people, the Phoenician people took their art forms across the known world. At the height of the Phoenician Empire from 1250 to 500 BC, their jewelry was prized through the world.
When the Greek navy came to power, the Phoenician trade started to dwindle and finally was engulfed totally by the rise of the Roman Empire. Although Roman culture tended to absorb other art and cultural ideas into their own, wire wrap art was abandoned for more traditional silversmith techniques.
The earliest reference to drawn wire is in the 8th century in France and the first commercial wire operation was in 1270 AD in France. During the Medieval period, Knights brought wire back to England to make chains and mail for their armor. Gold and silver wire were drawn in France and transported back to England. The earliest mention of wire production in England was 1465. During this time, wire-wrapping was limited to fastening crucifixes and other religious symbols to lanyards and chains.
During the late 1800's the Bohemian culture used wire to string chips of polished glass and stone beads to make necklaces and bracelets. This was popular among the European aristocracy for nearly 50 years. These chains were so popular that if you were found out to not have an authentic Bohemian piece of jewelry, you were shunned and scorned.
Modern day wire-wrapping in England and America can probably be attributed to an enterprising artist named Mr. C.G. Oxley. Employing First World War vets as a form of occupational therapy, Mr. Oxley created a widely popular line of jewelry using mainly glass beads and plain wire designs during the 20’s and 30’s. A young man named Jim Llewellyn had taken an interest in wire working when Oxley’s was in full swing. He used to buy his wire from Oxley’s, and could remember the huge workshop with a long U-shaped bench that stretched the length of the room. Twenty to thirty men sat along this bench busy wire working. Sadly, as that generation of wire-workers grew older and died, no new ones stepped up to take over, and Oxley’s closed its doors in the mid-80’s. Wire-wrapped jewelry is mostly unheard of in England today; but Jim and Mavis Llewellyn emigrated to Canada, bringing with them Jim’s hobby – wire-wrapping.
Today, we have an almost endless list of resources for wire art; modern wire artists combine gemstones, beads, antiques, family heirlooms and even mineral specimens with gold, silver, and gold fill wire. Other artists also use copper, jeweler’s brass and german silver in their designs
